30 July 2011

Playing Card Game: Moving Target

Introducing: Moving Target! It is an original card game using a deck of regular playing cards. It is satisfyingly strategic, simple to grasp and quick to play. Grab a friend and a deck of cards and go try it now! Then, come back and give me your feedback.

MOVING TARGET RULES

Players: 2-3

Playing Area:
The playing area is a 5x5 grid, similar to a BINGO card, with each cell in the grid large enough for one playing card. This grid does not need to be drawn, as it is small enough to be imagined.


Setup:
Each player is dealt 10 cards from the deck face down. (7 cards each if there are 3 players)
Players are allowed to look at their cards.
A single card is dealt from the top of the deck and placed face up in the center cell of the playing grid.


Play:
Each player takes their turn placing any card from their hand face-up onto an unoccupied cell on the playing grid.

  • The card must be placed in a cell adjacent to another card. (left, right, top, bottom)
  • The card must either share a suit or value with all adjacent cards that it is placed next to.
  • Cards cannot be placed outside of the playing grid.

If a player is unable to place a card due to the above restrictions, they must draw a card from the deck into their hand - until they draw one that can be placed – and place it on the grid.

  • A player can only draw up to 3 cards during one turn.
  • If the player has drawn 3 cards and still has no moves to make, they forfeit their turn.

There must never be more than 12 cards on the playing grid, so once a player places the 13th card, they must remove any card of their choice from the grid and place it in the discard pile.

  • They must place a card before removing one.
  • They cannot remove the card they just placed during that turn.
  • TIP: Players should make an announcement when there are 12 cards on the playing grid, so that everyone knows that they must now remove a card during their turn.
  • TIP: If your opponent tries to take their turn before you've removed a card, they must take back their card and you can counter by taking away their move.

If the draw deck runs out of cards, reshuffle the discard pile and use it as the new draw deck.

Winning:
The first player to empty their hand wins the game, however, the last card that they place MUST be placed adjacent to a card with the same value. If their final card only matches the suit of its adjacent card(s), they must draw another card from the deck and wait another turn.

  • TIP: Draw the replacement card before you remove a card from the grid to make the most strategic decision.

Photos:
Here are some pictures of a game I played with a friend in Central Park.

Notes:
Moving Target is strategic enough to where the right decisions can turn the favor of a game around, but the game is still quick enough where luck can carry someone through a round. Because of this, I recommend playing a best-of-7 set.
Wild cards make the game too easy to be competitive.
There is an incredibly small chance of the grid becoming deadlocked. In this case, a draw is declared and the whole game is reshuffled.

Strategy:
If you don't play the game with much strategy, it can go really fast and you'll be left wondering if you played the cards or if the cards played you. The most important task is to limit the number of moves available.
  • Stagger the cards. Cards in a straight line allow plenty of moves, but cards in a zig-zag shape require specific matches to fill in the blanks.
  • Avoid unblocking moves when you remove cards.
  • Pay attention to the cards your opponent removes. They may be clearing a path for their own.
  • Use the sides and corners of the grid to limit the potential of the cards you place.

Moving Target is an original card game that uses a standard deck of playing cards. It was developed by Andrew Gonsalves. All rights to its name and rules belong to Andrew Gonsalves. You must obtain permission from Andrew before using these rules for commercial use.

11 nibbles:

  1. I'm too tired to try to construct an example, but I'm fairly certain that in (extremely rare) degenerate cases, you could end up with a situation where a player cannot make any move at all. (That is, the only places where a move can be made could potentially not match any card in a players hand AND not match any card remaining in the deck or the discard pile. This would involve one or more previous players having drawn many cards. It would be very rare, but I suspect it could happen.)

    To solve this problem, I propose the following convoluted rule:

    If a player has drawn all the cards remaining and still cannot make a move, then:
    - All players discard all their cards
    - The discard pile is shuffled
    - 7 cards are dealt to all players
    - The player whose turn it is receives an extra 2 cards as a penalty
    - The player whose turn it is does not place a card; their turn ends immediately

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  2. Anon: I have adjusted the rules so that a player can only take a maximum of 3 cards per turn, so this will severely reduce the mathematical probability of that happening.

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  3. It's a very clever game, thanks for sharing. I'll be giving it a try (with friends) soon.

    Like Anonymous, I also had an little nagging voice telling me that you could potentially reach a deadlocked game. Of course this would likely require the users aiming to get an unplayable game. But I ran a few pencil-on-paper simulations and found that in a worst case scenario (that I encountered), you'd still have 3 playable slots, 10 occupied slots and the remaining 22 slots being unplayable. Even after the discards are re-shuffled, the players would be able to use the "unplayable" slots but could only put the same card back there that was removed earlier.

    An indication of when a slot becomes unplayable: Place a QH, to the left place 9H, above the 9H place a 9D. Immediately there is one unplayable slot to the right of the 9D because it can only be occupied by 9H which is already on the board. When it gets to a stage where cards are removed, remove the 9H. That leaves two unplayable slots diagonally across from each other. Both slots can only have a 9H and the 9H is on the discard pile.

    By carefully building these unplayable positions, you get to a point where the games slows down considerably as the players wait to encounter a card that can be used in one of the few free slots, or must reshuffle the discards and place them back in the place they were removed from (or diagonally oposite).

    As I said; not likely to come-up often in normal play and even if the players are aiming for a deadlock it appears that they will (at a guess) be 3 slots short of a deadlocked game. I'm not basing this on maths but just a few scribbled games on paper.

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  4. Typo correction:
    " remaining 22 slots "

    Should be:
    " remaining 12 slots "

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  5. James, thanks for the heads up. I just updated the post with an example of a deadlocked game. It seems entirely unlikely that it could happen, though. I'm not worried about it; even chess can reach a stalemate. If the grid gets deadlocked, call a draw and reshuffle!

    Now, I am going to think a little bit about the slowed game scenario you mentioned. Thanks again!

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  6. your unplayable situation pictured seems by your rules to be playable... Either a spade above the King of Spades or a Heart below the Jack of Hearts. Unless I'm missing something both of those are legal moves yes?

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  7. Ack! Anonymous, you are right. Though you get the idea.

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  8. I just replaced the deadlocked grid picture.

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  9. I just added a section for basic strategy because it occurred to me that players who don't have a clear grasp on what they should be doing end up leaving the board wide open.

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  10. I shall give this a game a try when I am with my card players.

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  11. The win clause is actually hard to do. The first player to empty their hand wins the game, however, the last card that they place MUST be placed adjacent to a card with the same value. It would be better if its ok to have a same suit to win.

    backgammon

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